Stories of a Dirty Traveler

Tucked deep within the lush jungles of western Belize lies one of the most remarkable and mysterious archaeological sites in the Americas: the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave. This sacred Maya cave, whose name translates to “Cave of the Stone Sepulchre,” is famous for its stunning stalactites and stalagmites, crystal-clear pools, and most hauntingly, the skeletal remains of ancient Maya ritual victims.

When swimming and squeezing through ATM Cave, you aren’t just exploring a cavern. You are venturing into a place where history, spirituality, and nature converge, offering a rare glimpse into the rituals and beliefs of the Maya civilization. For adventurers and history enthusiasts alike, this cave is a journey back in time, where every chamber tells a story etched in stone and human history. A truly remarkable site that is a must-see.

I was fortunate to enough to take a guided tour of this site that National Geographic considers the #1 Sacred Cave Destination in the world during my travels through Belize. A number of tour companies provide excursions into this mysterious underground world, I went with a wonderful organization called MayaWalk. My guide for the day, Francis, is a very successful birder, adventurer and extraordinary guide. He also happens to be a great friend of my brother in law, Jamal. He was able to pull some strings and get me placed in his guide group. I would have been happy to be in any of the groups, but Francis provided a great experience and, towards the end, brought us through an especially tight & water filled crevasse to add a bit more adrenaline to our adventure…Ill talk more on that at the end.

I was dropped off in front of the MayaWalk offices a little before 8 a.m. I checked in, filled out my waiver, grabbed a quick coffee and breakfast from a nearby coffee shop, and waited for departure with the other folks in my tour. We quickly got to know each other as we waited for our briefing and to hop on the bus. It would be about an hour’s drive to the parking area. Along the way, our guides gave us clear instructions on safety and what to expect in the cave, as well as a quick introduction to the history and significance of the site. The anticipation grew with every turn as we headed into the jungle, the tall Ceiba Trees dense greenery hinting at the adventure that awaited us just beyond the trees.

Upon arriving at the starting point, we were given PFD’s, helmets and headlamps. From here we would trek about 1 mile, crossing the river 3 times and stopping at various points along the way to learn about the Mayan History and local flora & fauna. As we crossed the cold, clear waters of the Macal River, we hoped the waters inside the cave would be warmer. The first two crossings were only about ankle-knee deep, but the third was a full on waist-deep wade with a rope to guide us across the slippery stones below our feet. Before long, we arrived at the cave entrance. We dropped our bags and belongings, it was vital that we bring nothing into the cave. A number of years ago, visitors could bring in their phones and cameras. However, after a couple of unfortunate incidents of tourists dropping their belongings and damaging pottery & human remains, bringing such things into the cave has been strictly forbidden. It was a deep privilege to still be able to enter such a sacred space. You will notice all the featured photos are watermarked with MayaWalk’s logo.

We had one last briefing and gear check before heading into the cave. The entrance of the cave is a magnificent hourglass shape, carved out by water over centuries of erosion, with stunningly teal water flowing outwards from the darkness. We waded as a group into the waters, finding it much warmer than the waters of the river crossings. For the next few hours we would swim, wade, climb and crawl our way through the beautiful caverns of ATM cave. The formations were out of this world. It truly felt like we were instantly transported into a different dimension, and to the Maya it was just that. The Maya believed the God of Rain, Chaac lived deep within the earth. Heading deep into these caves to perform various rituals was their way of appeasing him, ensuring rainfall, and safeguarding the fertility of their crops. Every pool, stalagmite, and echoing chamber held spiritual significance, turning the cave into both a sacred temple and a lifeline for the communities above. Walking through it, you can’t help but feel the weight of history, devotion, and the raw power of nature that made this hidden world so central to Maya life.

The cave in and of itself was breathtaking. Towering stalactites, massive stalagmites, monolithic pillars, rippled flowstone and cascading rimstone dams created an alien world that left us speechless.

As we made our way deeper into the cave, we began encountering our first signs of the Maya’s presence. What started as subtle details: small fragments of pottery tucked into shadowed corners, faint soot marks on the ceiling from ancient torches, quickly grew more striking. Our guide pointed out where ceremonial vessels had been intentionally placed, many still resting exactly where they were left over a thousand years ago. It was a quiet but powerful shift. From exploring a natural wonder to stepping into a sacred space shaped by human hands and belief. With each step forward, the cave felt less like a hidden landscape and more like a preserved moment in time, where the lives, rituals, and intentions of the Maya still lingered in the darkness. Then came the first of many sets of ancient remains of Mayan sacrifices.

There are nearly 2 dozen confirmed set of remains within the cave, ranging from individuals as young as 2 years old to about 25 years old. The majority being between the ages of 8-25 years old. It is an incredibly heavy and morbid feeling, knowing what happened in this caves all those years ago. Pure desperation to please Chaac in times of drought and famine. Most of the remains are incomplete, small bone fragments scattered here and there with the occasional skull. However, the main attraction that tourists come to see in the deepest depths of the cave is known as The Crystal Maiden.

Despite the name and original speculation, it is now believed that the remains may in fact be of a young male between the ages of 17-22 years old. These remains, though quite morbid, are incredible to see. It is believed that this person may have been left to die in the dark cave after a brutal sacrificial ceremony. I will spare you the exact details here. You just have to go yourself and listen to the tales of the guides.

Sitting in silence, gazing upon the remains of this tragic ending of a life was moving. A glimpse into a culture that is long gone. After a few minutes, we turned around and made our way out of the cave. Passing the other remains, sherds of pottery and scorch marks on the ceiling. We followed our footsteps, passing other eager groups of adventurers on their way into the heart of the cave. The way out was much quicker than the way in. We were motivated by stew chicken with rice & beans, dry clothes and the light of day.

Francis asked if we were interested in a couple detours on the way out, we all agreed for the more adventurous route. We came to a turn in the path with a narrow crevasse in the wall with river water raging through. He told us that was our route. We would shimmy sideways into the crack in the cave wall, coming to another crack on our right. Here, we would have to momentarily dunk our head beneath the water in order to get by a narrow section of the passage. Although it did not last long, it was an incredibly memorable and fun part of the excursion out of the cave. One that most people pass up or are not offered the opportunity for. The detour spat us out right back onto the original route. From here we waded, swam and walked our way back out towards daylight.

Soon enough, we found ourselves shielding our eyes from the glimmering sun at the opening of the cave as our eyes readjusted to the light. The warmth of the sun welcomed us back into the over-world. We made our way back to our belongings, shouldered our bags and began the walk back. We knew we had a nice lunch waiting for us, hiked at a brisk pace ready to refuel after our adventure into the darkness.

If ever you get the chance to visit Belize, make sure you don’t skip this incredible adventure. There is truly nothing like it.

All photos courtesy of MayaWalk Tours. A fantastic guide company that offers a variety of tours including: Birding Tours, Mayan Sites, Hiking & Ziplining, Cave Tubing & Canoeing and Belizean Culture Tours. Check them out!